Christmas in Tuscany: Abbadia San Salvatore and the Torches Festival

How I Discovered the Magic of Fire at Abbadia San Salvatore

Have you ever wondered what it would be like to celebrate Christmas in a different way? To experience a tradition that goes back centuries and connects you with the spirit of the season? That’s what I did last year, and in this article, you’ll read all about Christmas in Tuscany: Abbadia San Salvatore, a charming town with its annual Torches Festival on Christmas eve.

Abbadia San Salvatore is known as the “City of Torches”, because every December 24th, the whole village comes together to light up huge piles of wood that are built in every corner of the town. These are called “Fiaccole”, and they are not just bonfires. They are symbols of the bond between the people and the land, between the past and the present, between the sacred and the profane.

I arrived in Abbadia San Salvatore on the afternoon of the 24th, after a scenic drive through the hills of Tuscany. The town was buzzing with activity, as everyone was busy preparing for the big night. I checked in at a cozy bed and breakfast, where the owner greeted me warmly and told me a bit about the history of the Torches.

He explained that the Torches are one of the oldest fire festivals in Italy, dating back to the Middle Ages, when the town was under the influence of the powerful Abbey of San Salvatore. The Abbey was founded in the 8th century by a Lombard nobleman, and it became a center of culture and wealth in the region. The Abbey is still one of the main attractions of the town, with its impressive Romanesque architecture and medieval frescoes.

The owner also told me that the Torches are a way of honoring the mountain that dominates the landscape: Mount Amiata, a dormant volcano that gave birth to a fertile land. The inhabitants of Abbadia San Salvatore consider themselves “children of fire”, as they have always lived in harmony with the forces of nature. In fact, until the 1970s, the town was one of the main centers of mercury production in Italy, thanks to the cinnabar mines that were located in the mountain. The Mining Museum Park preserves the memory of this activity, with exhibits, documents, and guided tours of the underground galleries.

The owner invited me to join him and his family for the Ceremony of Ignition, which would start at 6 pm in the main square. He said it was a spectacle not to be missed, as it marked the beginning of the Torches festival. I thanked him for his hospitality and decided to take a walk around the town, to see the Torches before they were lit.

I was amazed by the size and the shape of the Torches, which were up to seven meters high and had a pyramidal form. They were made of logs that were smoothed and woven together, using techniques that were passed down from generation to generation. Each Torch had a name and a meaning, and they represented different aspects of the town’s life and culture. Some were dedicated to saints, others to historical figures, others to local crafts and products. There were Torches for children, for lovers, for travelers, for dreamers. There were Torches that told stories, that made jokes, that expressed wishes. There were Torches that were simple and elegant, and others that were elaborate and colorful.

I felt like I was in a fairy tale, surrounded by these giant wooden sculptures that seemed to have a life of their own. I could sense the pride and the passion that went into creating them, and I could imagine the joy and the warmth that they would bring to the night. I took pictures of some of the most beautiful and original Torches, and I chatted with some of the locals, who were happy to share their stories and their traditions with me.

As the sun was setting, I made my way to the main square, where a large crowd had gathered. The atmosphere was festive and cheerful, as people greeted each other and exchanged greetings. The philharmonic band was playing Christmas songs, and the smell of roasted chestnuts and mulled wine filled the air. I found a spot near the Town Hall, where a huge Torch was standing, waiting for the sacred fire.

At 6 pm, the Ceremony of Ignition began, featuring the “Blessing of Fire” from one of the Abbey priests. He offered prayers and sprinkled holy water onto each Torch before lighting them and creating an impressive sight as flames quickly spread from one Torch to the next! Crowds cheered as Torch Leaders donned traditional costumes and carried torches around town to light the remaining Torches. As we walked the narrow streets, we ran into groups carrying torches and singing “pastorelle,” local Christmas carols. Soon enough, the town lit up with thousands of flames. At one of the Torches, a family had set up a table filled with food and drinks; I happily accepted their invitation and enjoyed sampling their cheese, bread, wine, and sweets – their tradition for celebrating Christmas by sharing food around a fire with neighbors and guests alike – these Torches represented tradition as well as values like hospitality, friendship and simplicity.

I began to understand the true spirit of this fire celebration: light that shines in darkness; fire which warms hearts; love which unites us together and magic from life, stories, and fire itself.