Discover Sovana, a Hidden Gem in Tuscany with a Secret Connection to the Island of Monte Cristo

sovana

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Have you ever heard of Sovana, the tiny village in southern Tuscany that was once home to a pope, a saint, and a treasure? If not, you’re missing out on one of the most authentic and charming places in Italy. In this article, we’ll explore this offbeat destination and find out why you have to add it to your must-visit list if seeking an authentic Tuscan experience.

Sovana at a Glance

Sovana is located in the province of Grosseto, where I live, about 130 kilometers south of Florence. Sovana has a population of less than 100 people! Despite its tiny size, this village boasts a remarkable heritage that dates back to the Etruscan era. Sovana was a powerful city-state in the 7th and 6th centuries BC, and its necropolis, a complex of tombs carved into the tufo rock (a type of vulcanic rock), is one of the most impressive in Italy.

Sovana also played an important role in the Middle Ages, as the birthplace of Pope Gregory VII, the reformer who challenged the emperor Henry IV in the Investiture Controversy. Sovana’s cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter, is a splendid example of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, and it features a unique stone ceiling that was built using a technique that predated Brunelleschi’s dome in Florence.

But Sovana’s most intriguing attraction is the Museum of San Mamiliano, where you can see a treasure of 498 ancient gold coins that was discovered in 2004 under the church of the same name. The coins date back to the 5th century AD, and they are mostly minted in Constantinople. Some of them are rare and undocumented types, and they have a high historical and artistic value.

According to a legend, the treasure of Sovana is linked in a mysterious way with the Island of Monte Cristo – the setting of Alexandre Dumas’ famous novel. San Mamiliano was a hermit and bishop who lived on the island in the 5th Century. He fought and killed a dragon there. According to legend, the dragon guarded a treasure that became known as the Treasure of San Mamiliano. This treasure was never found by anyone on the island. Could it be possible that the treasure discovered in Sovana is the same as the one supposed to be found on Monte Cristo’s island?

In the following sections, I will explain more about San Mamiliano, the island of Monte Cristo and their relation to Sovana. You will also get some tips on visiting Sovana, its surroundings and what you can do. Enjoy this trip into the past and present of one the most beautiful Italian villages.

Sovana Named One of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy

Sovana is part of the I Borghi piĂč belli d’Italia (“The most beautiful villages of Italy”) association. I visited it one day, after exploring Pitigliano, the stunning “little Jerusalem” perched on a tuff cliff. As I was driving back to my hotel, I spotted a sign for Sovana and decided to follow it. I remembered someone in Pitigliano had told me not to miss this little gem, and I’m so glad I didn’t!

Sovana is a one-street town that has preserved its medieval character and its Etruscan heritage.

Sovana piazza

Credit: TuscanDreamVacations.com

The main street in Sovana makes you think you are on a film set: it’s hard to believe it’s real, and you feel magically transported to the Middle Ages with its ancient stone houses, the cathedral, and the small shops selling handmade jewelry, pottery, and artwork.

Sovana was an Etruscan powerhouse back in the day, and it was also the home of Pope Gregory VII, a brave reformer who defied the Emperor. The Cathedral of Sovana, or St. Peter’s Cathedral in English, was built between the 11th century and 12th century. The cathedral is one of the most important medieval monuments in the Tuscan architectural heritage. In fact, the cathedral has a stunning stone ceiling built with a technique that precedes Brunelleschi’s famous dome of Florence. The ceiling is made up of rows of bricks arranged in a double-helix design, creating a self-supporting and stable structure. It is a magnificent blend of Gothic and Romanesque styles.

Credit: Shutterstock

But the most fascinating part of Sovana was the archaeological park, where I explored the impressive necropolis carved into the tufo rock. The Etruscan necropolis of Sovana is an integral part of the Archaeological Park CittĂ  del Tufo. This park encompasses not only Sovana but also the neighboring centers of Sorano and San Quirico, along with several other smaller villages. These interconnected settlements share a rich history, unique geographical features, and an environment shaped by the ancient tufo rock landscape.

Archelogical Park Citta' del Tufo

Credits: Google Maps

I walked along the vie cave, the sunken roads that connected the tombs and the settlements. I marveled at the monumental tombs, such as the Tomb of Ildebranda, the Tomb of the Winged Demons, and the Tomb of the Siren. I felt a connection with the ancient people who lived and died here, and who left behind a remarkable legacy.

Sovana's Necropolis

Credit: TuscanDreamVacations

Sovana is a place that deserves to be known and appreciated by more travelers. It’s a place that offers a glimpse into the past, but also a taste of the present. It’s a place where you can enjoy the beauty of nature, the richness of culture, and the warmth of hospitality.

Credit: TuscanDreamVacations.com

The Legend of the Island of Monte Cristo

Sovana has the reputation of being one of the first cities to turn Christian in all of Tuscany, thanks to the evangelist S. Mamiliano in the 4th century. This saint left behind a legend and some say a treasure which was eventually turned into a world-famous book: The Count of Monte Cristo.

gold coins in sovana

Credit: sovana.info

A legend and a historical discovery explain the connection between the coins found in Sovana, and the island of Monte Cristo. The island of Montecristo is located in the Tyrrhenian Sea, and is part of the Tuscan Archipelago. It lies approximately 60 kilometers (37 miles) off the coast of Italy.

According to legend, Saint Mamiliano was a hermit and bishop who lived on Monte Cristo in the 5th Century. He fought and defeated a dragon on the island. The dragon, according to legend, was guarding a treasure that became known as Treasure of Saint Mamiliano. This treasure was sought by many people including pirates and sailors. Alexandre Dumas also tried to locate it, but with no success.

However, in 2004, a real treasure was found in Sovana. The Church of San Mamiliano in Sovana had fallen into total disuse and came under restoration. During the excavations, archaeologists discovered 498 gold coins dating back to the 5th century, buried in a vase under the altar, giving some credit to the treasure of San Mamiliano and the island of Monte Cristo! The coins were mostly minted in Constantinople and some of them were rare and undocumented types. The treasure was considered one of the most important of its kind in Italy, both in terms of scope and historical value.

Some people believed that the treasure discovered in Sovana is the same as the one guarded by the dragon and brought to the mainland by Saint Mamilaino or his followers. This hypothesis has not been confirmed by any evidence. The mystery is still unsolved…

Sovana’s Food

Sovana’s culinary scene offers a unique blend of traditional Tuscan flavors. Enjoy local specialties like pappa al pomodoro, acquacotta, Savona sausages and much more. Local stores and restaurants in the town showcase local products, providing a delicious culinary experience.

Food in Sovana

Several cats roam Sovana, cared for by a kind lady in town, or so I was told.

Sovana’s Accommodations

If you are thinking of staying overnight in Sovana, you’ll be able to choose from unassuming 4-star resorts to a budget-friendly bed and breakfast right located right on the main street. After sunset, when all the tourists are gone, you will enjoy an immersive ambience that will make your Sovana’s experience extraordinary. 

Sovana Hotel and Resort

Four-Star Resort: Looks are deceiving!

Sovana Hotel and Resort info

This is what the Sovana Hotel & Resort looks like beyond the modest facade…

Sovana's Rooms for Rent

Affittacamere: Rooms for Rent, for a budget-conscious traveler.

Conclusion

As I mentioned earlier, Sovana has been nominated as one of the most beautiful ‘borghi’ or villages in Italy. The medieval architecture is so well-preserved that it feels as if time has stood still for centuries, or as if you’ve traveled back in time. Sovana is a wonderful place to visit if you’re interested in ancient legends, Etruscan tombs, and hiking through trails full of mystery and beauty. Additionally, the few but friendly inhabitants will welcome you and share their other treasures: great food, unique shopping finds, and local crafts. Are you ready to book your trip to Sovana? Don’t forget to share your experience in the comments section below.

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